Feb 4
Duane KingArticles, Heating & Cooling Humidity Indoor Air Quality
Most of the year I enjoy rain and even look forward to a mighty thunderstorm. I don’t care much for moderate amounts of rain this time of year though because it makes everything look dirty and uninviting. Yet, it is necessary to promote the health and well being of Mother Earth.
We need a certain amount of moisture in our homes all year long to promote our health and well being as well. Without the proper level of humidity our skin gets itchy, our throats get raspy, our noses may begin to bleed, and respiratory irritants become aggravated. Static electricity can increase to the point that our spouses and children run away when we try to show them affection. Dry air can also damage furniture, trim, and hardwood flooring. These conditions occur more frequently during the winter months because indoor air loses humidity to the outdoors and also through the process of heating our homes.
So what is the right amount of moisture and how do we get it? Experts in this field recommend indoor relative humidity levels of 30% to 50%. We can increase humidity levels inside our homes by using a humidifier.
Most forced air type furnaces are equipped with a “whole-house”, also known as a “central”, humidifier. The humidifier is usually mounted to the cold air duct near the furnace and has a water line attached to it. Inside the humidifier there is a rotating cylinder or sponge type pad that picks up water from a small reservoir. There may be a metal evaporating grill instead that momentarily holds water as it passes through the humidifier from top to bottom. Humidifiers must be cleaned routinely to ensure proper and efficient operation. These units also have a “Humidistat” that allows the user to increase or decrease the level of humidity at will and will be located near the humidifier or next to the furnace thermostat.
Portable humidifiers are also available at several home improvement stores. These are very easy to use. You simply place it somewhere out of the way, fill it with water, turn it on and walk away. Most units shut off automatically when the water is used up and have an indicator that let’s you know it needs to be refilled. I use this type in my home.
Feb 4
Duane KingArticles, Exterior leaks, repair, roof
Don't allow yourself to succomb to fear when it comes to roof repair!
I have roofed more homes than I care to remember over the past thirty plus years. It is grueling work but I’m thankful for the knowledge that I gained from each one. This knowledge has enabled me to perform a proper, and more importantly, thorough inspection for each of my clients.
If you remember only one sentence from this article it should be the following one. Roof leaks seldom show up immediately. By the time you realize your roof is leaking a considerable amount of damage may have already occurred. So what can you do to avoid the unexpected? Get to know your roof as well as the guy that constructed it.
Identify the style of your roof – Each style of roof has its own unique characteristics and is designed to perform in a specific way. Flat, Gable, Hip, and Leanto are the most common types. A poorly designed roof will surely leak.
Identify the type of covering – This is the material that covers the entire roof and protects the underlying wooden components. Some kinds of material lasts longer than others but all will have to be replaced at some future time. Coverings are typically made from Asphalt, Fiberglass, and Metal. They come in various designs and are made to work with specific roof styles.
Identify valley areas – When opposing pitched sections of a roof meet a valley is created. Water traveling through the valley becomes concentrated causing it to wear faster than the rest of the roof. For this reason valleys must be reinforced to ensure that they will last as long as the other areas. There are basically two types of valley designs, opened and closed. Open valleys are not covered by the same material as the rest of the roof, i.e.asphalt shingled roof with metal valleys, and closed valleys are.
Identify flashings – All joints and openings in a roof must be protected from moisture penetration. This is achieved by installing “flashings”. Flashings are angled or molded pieces of material that are installed at key areas of the roof as the covering is being installed. Flashings are typically made from aluminum, plastic, and rubber and needed at chimneys, vent pipes, electrical masts, wall intersections, valleys, etc.. All flashings must be installed in a specific way in order to prevent water from getting under roof coverings where it will become trapped.
It is good practice to inspect your roof twice each year, late spring and again in the fall. Assess the overall condition of the covering, be mindful of any weak or soft spots that you feel, and examine areas that require flashing very thoroughly.
Duane
Feb 4
Duane KingArticles, Home & Garden doors
You'd be surprised how many houses don't have properly working doors!
I hope everyone is having a great year so far!
I am always amazed at the number of doors I find that bind and/or do not latch while I’m performing an inspection. I am amazed because in most cases the problem can be corrected in less than ten minutes with a few screws. I’ll explain how in a few minutes. First we need to learn some terms and definitions.
In order for a door to open, close, and latch properly it must be plumb and the frame must be square. Plumb means the door is hanging vertically true. Square means the corners of the frame form perfect, or close to perfect, 90 degree angles.
I’ll address an out of plumb door that won’t latch first since it is the most common condition I find. While standing inside of the room with the door closed I look at the space between the door and frame at the hinge side of the door. If the space is wider at the top than at the bottom, the door is tilted downward and the latch bolt is too low to enter the hole in the strike plate. This can also cause the door to bind near the top. A door that is tilted downward can be corrected by installing longer screws (2-1/2″ to 3-1/2″) through the top hinge and into the stud behind the door frame. If the opposite is true the door is tilted upward (very rare) and the bolt is too high to enter the hole in the strike plate. This can cause the door to bind near the bottom too. Longer screws can be installed through the bottom hinge to correct the problem.
If the space at the hinge side of the door is uniform from top to bottom and the door binds or won’t latch then the frame is out of square and must be brought back into proper position. This requires a little more than a few screws and ten minutes. By looking at the space between the top of the door and the frame I can tell if the frame at the latch side of the door needs to be moved upward or downward to make the corners square. In order to adjust the frame I have to free up, then reposition, the top and latch side portions of it. This cannot be done until after I have removed the adjacent pieces of trim.
Feb 4
Duane KingArticles, Heating & Cooling energy, fireplace, heating, inspect
It looks pretty on the outside. But, how well is your fireplace really working?
Like many of my clients and some of you, I burn wood this time of year.
I love everything about it. Cutting up the trees, splitting the logs, stacking the wood, and building the fire. It is so rewarding for me to know that I provided comfort for my family once again with my own two hands.
I thought it would be fitting to talk about fireplaces this month.
When I think of a “Fireplace” I envision the traditional stone or brick fireplaces that we see everywhere this time of year. You know, the ones Santa drops down. Typically these have a large, open firebox made of steel or brick with a damper above it and an ash pit below it, a concrete or ceramic hearth in front of the opening, and a stone or brick chimney with sections of clay tile inside going up the wall outside. Some have spark screens or doors in front of the opening as well.
Here is how a fireplace works. Logs burn inside the firebox creating heat. The heat warms the room and also creates a draft that pulls the smoke from the fire up and out of the chimney. The damper above the firebox is adjustable so that the draft can be regulated. The ash pit below provides a temporary place to store leftover ashes after a fire has burned out. The hearth acts as a shield preventing any stray sparks from landing on the floor and burning it. Screens and doors prevent sparks from escaping out of the firebox as well.
When inspecting a fireplace I start inside and first look at the hearth. It should extend at least eighteen inches into the room and be made of some type of non-combustible material. Next I examine the firebox for signs of deteriorated mortar and loose bricks. I then check the operation of the damper and determine how much creosote has accumulated. Outside I examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of deteriorated mortar and loose masonry. Finally, I look down inside the chimney from above for signs of blockages, broken or misaligned tiles and creosote buildup.
CREOSOTE = Creosote is a dark brown / black tar-like substance that accumulates inside the throat and chimney of all wood burning fireplaces and wood stoves. It can ignite and cause a dangerous chimney fire. Chimney should be cleaned when creosote becomes 1/8th of an inch thick.
Note – Hardwoods, such as Oak, Maple, Birch, Walnut burn better than softwoods.
Stay warm,
Duane
Feb 4
joedearmanBasement, Structure intrusion, moisture, mold
Have you seen things like this around your house? If so, read on!
I was performing some maintenance on my home the other day and became inspired. Please read on.
Protecting our homes from the elements is a constant battle, always has been, always will be. There are three areas where moisture can enter our home. These are Roof, Wall, and Foundation.
Following are some tips that will help you identify weak spots and win the battle when dealing with moisture intrusion:
Roofs – Any crack/opening in the roof can allow moisture infiltration to occur. Flashings are designed to protect joints and openings at chimneys, vent pipes, skylights, roof vents, and wall intersections. Damaged and/or improperly installed flashings will allow water to enter the home.
Walls – Any crack/opening in the wall can allow moisture infiltration to occur. Caulking is a putty-like substance used to seal cracks and gaps around windows, doors, and at wall intersections. When caulking becomes dry, cracked, and/or loose it should be removed and replaced.
Foundations – Any crack/opening in the foundation can allow moisture infiltration to occur. The amount of moisture, and damage, is magnified when gutters/downspouts are not functional or missing and grading is not directing water away from the wall. Sealing all openings and creating adequate drainage around the foundation is key.
I’ve tried to keep my explanations simple. If you would like more information about Home Maintenance, Moisture Intrusion, or Flashings please contact me at
dkingfullserviceinspector@gmail.com
Feb 4
Duane KingExterior, Heating & Cooling downspouts, heating, ice damming, iceicles
How much damage do icicles like these cause on your roof?
Do you have numerous icicles hanging from the roof of your home ?
It may look enchanting but it could be costing you more to heat your home. It could also be causing damage to your home. Icicles can be a sign of a condition known as ice damming.
Ice damming occurs when heated air inside the home migrates upward into the attic. The warm air then melts snow on the upper portion of the roof. When the melted snow reaches the significantly colder soffit area near the eves it refreezes to form an ice dam which is typically indicated by icicles. The dam will not allow additional melted snow and water to run off the roof so it backs up under the shingles and begins to leak into the home causing damage to insulation and structural components of the roof.
Properly insulating attic spaces and sealing all areas that allow air from inside the house to escape into the attic is the key to preventing ice damming.
If you would like to know more about Ice Damming, Roof Leaks, or Attic Ventilation please don’t hesitate to contact me. I’m always available for you!
Feb 4
joedearmanUncategorized
I have been performing maintenance and minor construction work over the summer to suppliment my income and wanted to extend my services to you as well. Following are examples of the kind of work I’ve been doing for folks:
Exterior = Sidewalks, patios, landscaping, playgrounds, stairs, railings, trimwork, paint/caulk, windows/doors, hardware, siding, foudation cracks, brickwork, mortar repair, porches/decks, benches, lights/outlets, roofing, flashing repairs, chimney repairs, vents, gutters/downspouts, fences, garages, garage doors, shelving, mailboxes, rubbish removal.
Interior = Drywall repair, paneling, trimwork, ceiling tiles, paint, hardware, shelving, caulking, stairs, railings, doors, cabinets, sinks, toilets, bathroom/ kitchen remodeling, lights/outlets, smoke detectors, sump pumps, structural repairs, plumbing repairs, minor electrical repairs, furnace filters.
If you or anyone you know (sellers/buyers, landlords, friends/relatives) could use my services please contact me or pass my contact information along. Call me at 517-812-2463 or email me at
dkingfullserviceinspector@gmail.com. Thanks.
Duane
Feb 4
joedearmanArticles, Basement, Exterior, Heating & Cooling, Home & Garden, Kitchen / Bath, Plumbing, Roofing, Well / Septic
Before you buy a home, one of the things you should do is to have the home checked out by a professional home inspector. Buying a home is expensive enough as it is - why would you choose to fork over another $400 if you’re not required to? In this article, we’ll delve into what a home inspection can reveal and why you shouldn’t forgo this optional procedure. (If this is your first time buying a home, be sure to read 10 Worst First-Time Homebuyer Mistakes.)
The Home Inspection Contingency
Your first clue that a home inspection is important is that it can be used as a contingency in your purchase offer. This contingency provides that if significant defects are revealed by a home inspection, you can back out of your offer, free of penalty, within a certain timeframe. The potential problems a home can have must be pretty serious if they could allow you to walk away from such a significant contract. (For more on closing on your home, read Understanding The Escrow Process.)
What a Home Inspection Examines
Inspectors vary in experience, ability and thoroughness, but a good inspector should examine certain components of the home you want to purchase and then produce a report covering his or her findings. The typical inspection lasts two to three hours and you should be present for the inspection to get a firsthand explanation of the inspector’s findings and, if necessary, ask questions. Also, any problems the inspector uncovers will make more sense if you see them in person instead of relying solely on the snapshot photos in the report.
The inspector should note:
- whether each problem is a safety issue, major defect, or minor defect
- which items need replacement and which should be repaired or serviced
- items that are suitable for now but that should be monitored closely
A really great inspector will even tell you about routine maintenance that should be performed, which can be a great help if you are a first-time homebuyer. (To learn more, read First-Time Homebuyer Guide.)
While it is impossible to list everything an inspector could possibly check for, the following list will give you a general idea of what to expect. (Home maintenance can cost you more than you bargained for. Read Four Overlooked Homeownership Costs to learn more.)
Exterior
- Exterior walls – The inspector will check for damaged or missing siding, cracks and whether the soil is in excessively close contact with the bottom of the house, which can invite wood-destroying insects. However, the pest inspector, not the home inspector, will check for actual damage from these insects. The inspector will let you know which problems are cosmetic and which could be more serious.
- Foundation – If the foundation is not visible, and it usually is not, the inspector will not be able to examine it directly, but they can check for secondary evidence of foundation issues, like cracks or settling.
- Grading – The inspector will let you know whether the grading slopes away from the house as it should. If it doesn’t, water could get into the house and cause damage, and you will need to either change the slope of the yard or install a drainage system. (Read about managing the expense of a yard in Save Money On Summer Bills.)
- Garage or carport – The inspector will test the garage door for proper opening and closing, check the garage framing if it is visible and determine if the garage is properly ventilated (to prevent accidental carbon monoxide poisoning). If the water heater is in the garage, the inspector will make sure it is installed high enough off the ground to minimize the risk of explosion from gasoline fumes mingling with the heater’s flame.
- Roof – The inspector will check for areas where roof damage or poor installation could allow water to enter the home, such as loose, missing or improperly secured shingles and cracked or damaged mastic around vents. He or she will also check the condition of the gutters. (The roof offers opportunities for energy-conscious homeowners. Read Building Green For Your House And Wallet to learn more.)
Interior
- Plumbing – The home inspector will check all faucets and showers, look for visible leaks, such as under sinks and test the water pressure. He or she will also identify the kind of pipes the house has, if any pipes are visible. The inspector may recommend a secondary inspection if the pipes are old to determine if or when they might need to be replaced and how much the work would cost. The inspector will also identify the location of the home’s main water shutoff valve.
- Electrical – The inspector will identify the kind of wiring the home has, test all the outlets and make sure there are functional ground fault circuit interrupters (which can protect you from electrocution, electric shock and electrical burns) installed in areas like the bathrooms, kitchen, garage and outdoors. They will also check your electrical panel for any safety issues and check your electrical outlets to make sure they do not present a fire hazard.
- Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) – The inspector will look at your HVAC system to estimate the age of the furnace and air conditioner, determine if they function properly and recommend repairs or maintenance. An inspector can also give you an idea of the age of the home’s ducting, whether it might have leaks, if your home has sufficient insulation to minimize your energy bills and whether there is any asbestos insulation.
- Water heater – The home inspector will identify the age of the heater and determine if it is properly installed and secured. The inspector will also let you know what kind of condition it is in and give you a general idea of how many years it has left.
- Kitchen appliances – The inspector will sometimes check kitchen appliances that come with the home to make sure they work, but these are not always part of the inspection. Be sure to ask the inspector which appliances are not included so that you can check them yourself. (Energy-efficient appliances can save you big bucks. Read Ten Ways To Save Energy And Money to learn more.)
- Laundry room – The inspector will make sure the laundry room is properly vented. A poorly maintained dryer-exhaust system can be a serious fire hazard.
- Fire safety – If the home has an attached garage, the inspector will make sure the wall has the proper fire rating and that it hasn’t been damaged in any way that would compromise its fire rating. They will also test the home’s smoke detectors. (Learn more about protecting your home from fire in Insurance Tips For Homeowners.)
- Bathrooms – The inspector will check for visible leaks, properly secured toilets, adequate ventilation and other issues. If the bathroom does not have a window and/or a ventilation fan, mold and mildew can become problems and moisture can warp wood cabinets over time.
Home Inspection Shortcomings
A home inspection can’t identify everything that might be wrong with the property – it only checks for visual cues to problems. For example, if the home’s doors do not close properly or the floors are slanted, the foundation might have a crack - but if the crack can’t be seen without pulling up all the flooring in the house, a home inspector can’t tell you for sure if it’s there.
Furthermore, most home inspectors are generalists - that is, they can tell you that the plumbing might have a problem, but then they will recommend that you hire an expert to verify the problem and give you an estimate of the cost to fix it. Of course, hiring additional inspectors will cost extra money. Home inspectors also do not check for issues like termite damage, site contamination, mold, engineering problems and other specialized issues. (Learn how to find qualified experts in The Better Business Bureau’s Tool Belt For Saving Cash.)
After the Inspection
Once you have the results of your home inspection, you have several options.
- If the problems are too significant or too expensive to fix, you can choose to walk away from the purchase, as long as the purchase contract has an inspection contingency.
- For problems large or small, you can ask the seller to fix them, reduce the purchase price, or to give you a cash credit at closing to fix the problems yourself - this is where a home inspection can pay for itself several times over. (Read 10 Tips For Getting A Fair Price On A Home.)
- If these options aren’t viable in your situation (for example, if the property is bank-owned and being sold as-is), you can get estimates to fix the problems yourself and come up with a plan for repairs in order of their importance and affordability once you own the property. (To learn more, read Do-It-Yourself Projects To Boost Home Value.)
Bottom Line
A home inspection will cost you a little bit of time and money, but in the long run you’ll be glad you did it. The inspection can reveal problems that you may be able to get the current owners to fix before you move in, saving you time and money. If you are a first-time homebuyer, an inspection can give you a crash course in home maintenance and a checklist of items that need attention to make your home as safe and sound as possible. Don’t skip this important step in the home-buying process - it’s worth every penny.
by Amy Fontinelle, (Contact Author | Biography)
Amy Fontinelle earned her Bachelor of Arts degree from Washington University in St. Louis. In addition to writing for Investopedia, Amy also has her own personal finance website, Two Pennies Earned, which makes it easy and fun to save more, earn more and be financially secure both today and in the future. Amy is also a special contributing writer to the website Personal Finance Advice. When she’s not writing, Amy enjoys photography, traveling and trying new restaurants. To learn more about Amy, please visit her personal site.
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Feb 4
joedearmanUncategorized
Most of us have spent the past few weeks preparing our homes for winter. We have removed all of the debris from the gutters, raked up all the leaves, covered the plants, emptied the bird bath, put the patio furniture away, etc..
Did you remember to disconnect the garden hoses, close the shut-off valve inside the basement, open the faucet, and drain the left over water out? If you do not have a frost-free type faucet, and did not do all of the previous things, the water that remains inside of the pipe connected to the faucet can freeze and cause the pipe to burst.
Conventional faucets are designed with the valve, that stops water from coming out of the faucet, located inside the faucet at the exterior of the home. An additional “shut-off valve” containing a “drain cap” must be installed inside of the home at the pipe connected to the exterior faucet so that water can be stopped before it gets to the faucet. Only after this valve is closed can the exterior faucet be opened to allow any remaining water inside the pipe to drain out so that it cannot freeze.
If you have a frost-free type faucet you can simply close the outside faucet after disconnecting the garden hose and be finished with it.
How does a frost-free faucet prevent water from being trapped and freezing?
Frost-free faucets are designed so that the actual “valve” that stops water from coming out of the faucet is located inside the pipe, instead of inside the faucet, twelve or more inches inside of the home. Once this valve is closed any water remaining inside of the pipe in front of the valve drains out of the faucet and therefore cannot freeze.
Feb 4
joedearmanUncategorized
A home’s foundation is, in my opinion, the most important structural system of the building. It anchors our homes to the earth and provides support to the walls and roof. It is also one of the most neglected areas I find while performing an inspection.
Foundations are constructed from several different types of materials and are designed according to soil characteristics and weight loads.
The first foundations were made of stone that was simply stacked on top of the ground high enough to keep the wooden structural components from sitting on the ground and rotting. This type of foundation is twelve to twenty-four inches thick but offers little resistance to water infiltration and pests because it has no mortar between the stones. Keeping the stones in place is an ongoing challenge as well.
Once cement became available foundation stones could be held in place for a longer period of time but the mortar between the stones eventually deteriorates and the stones will then move. This means constant maintenance is required. The amount of water infiltrating the walls is less but still occurs frequently with this type of foundation.
Brick foundations seemed to be a great improvement over stone because the bricks weighed less and were uniform in shape and size. They are laid up on top of concrete footings and provide more surface to surface contact so the walls do not have to be as thick as the stone ones. Bricks can also be stacked and mortared in a number of different ways to look attractive. However, because bricks are porous they deteriorate when they are in contact with damp soil for long periods of time.
Foundations constructed of manufactured concrete blocks became standard practice for several decades. The blocks are hollow, typically eight inches tall and eight inches wide making wall construction relatively short work. They are also laid up on top of footings and mortared in place. Metal rods or wire is inserted between the blocks during construction to provide reinforcement. A dampproof coating is applied to the exterior surface prior to backfilling to prevent moisture infiltration. The blocks extend two to four courses above original grade. Vertical cracks along mortar joints due to settling are common but may allow water infiltration to occur. Horizontal cracks and stepped cracks are signs of wall displacement and require immediate expert attention.
Poured wall foundations have become very popular over the years and is the foundation of choice in many parts of the country today. This foundation is made of concrete that is poured between pairs of steel forms that are temporarily held together with metal ties and pins. Re-bar is inserted uniformly throughout the concrete to provide reinforcement. Once the concrete has cured the forms are removed and a dampproof coating is applied to the exterior surface. Diagonal cracks near window openings and vertical cracks at construction joints are common but may allow water infiltration to occur. Any signs of wall displacement should be immediately investigated by a foundation expert.
Preserved wood foundations (PWF) are constructed entirely of pressure-treated wood. Top and bottom wall plates, wall studs, and blocking are assembled. The exterior side of the wall frame is then covered with a double layer of plywood. All plywood seams are caulked and covered with polyethylene for dampproofing purposes. The wall assembly rests on a bed of gravel. The spaces between the wall studs can be insulated and interior finishing is much easier to complete than with block or concrete walls. Wall displacement is rare but is typically the only defect associated with this type of foundation.
Terms and Definitions
Backfill – To replace soil that was initially removed to allow for construction of a foundation.
Cure – The drying and hardening process associated with concrete.
Course - Horizontal row of bricks, blocks, etc..
Displacement - Deviation or movement from a set line, such as bowing, caused by lateral forces.
Drystone Foundation – Foundation constructed of stone without mortar.
Footing – Widened concrete pad located below ground used to provide support and stability to foundation components.
Mortar – A mixture of cement, aggregates, and water used to hold masonry in place.
Mortared Stone Foundation – Foundation constructed of stone and mortar.
Re-bar – Small diameter metal bars placed inside concrete to provide additional strength.
Structure – Components that provide support, i.e. foundation, framework.
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