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Feb 4
Heating & Cooling, Video diy, furnace, heating, maintenance No Comments
Ever wondered how the furnace in your house works? Want to know how to prevent it stopping? In this video we’ll show you everything you need to know to keep your home warm and cozy!
Feb 4
Basement, Exterior No Comments
If you’ve ever had your basement flood, you know once is enough. Use this guide to learn the visual clues to prevent these expensive damages!
Feb 4
Articles, Exterior, Roofing attic ventilation, features, ice damming, iceicles, roof leaks No Comments
Do you have numerous icicles hanging from the roof of your home ?300 x 175
It may look enchanting but it could be costing you more to heat your home. It could also be causing damage to your home. Icicles can be a sign of a condition known as ice damming.
Ice damming occurs when heated air inside the home migrates upward into the attic. The warm air then melts snow on the upper portion of the roof. When the melted snow reaches the significantly colder soffit area near the eves it refreezes to form an ice dam which is typically indicated by icicles. The dam will not allow additional melted snow and water to run off the roof so it backs up under the shingles and begins to leak into the home causing damage to insulation and structural components of the roof.
Properly insulating attic spaces and sealing all areas that allow air from inside the house to escape into the attic is the key to preventing ice damming.
If you would like to know more about Ice Damming, Roof Leaks, or Attic Ventilation please don’t hesitate to contact me.
Feb 4
Articles, Basement, Exterior, Structure Basement, downspouts, footing, grading, gutters, leaks, mold No Comments
The warm temperatures that we have been enjoying these past days have caused a lot of snow to melt. As a result, the ground has become saturated and cannot hold any more water.The excess water must go some where.
Some of it will find its way into basements and crawlspaces of homes that have clogged gutters and / or improperly graded landscaping that is not directing the water away from the home. This may in turn allow wall coverings, floor coverings, and appliances located in these areas to be damaged and promote mold growth too.
If the home is equipped with footing tile and a functional sump pump moisture infiltration should not be an issue. Monitor the operation of the sump pump daily though, as it may be running more frequently at this time. I have seen many pumps fail this time of the year.
Side Note: I have experienced a high number of interior plumbing leaks in vacant homes that have been recently de-winterized as well.
If you would like more information on basement leaks, grading, or gutters and downspouts please don’t hesitate to contact me
Feb 4
Articles, Exterior, Pest Damage No Comments
Ah Spring, a time of rebirth and renewel.
Unfortunately, not all life is accepted with open arms….mosquitos, hornets, termites, and carpenter ants to name a few.
In my profession concerns about termites and carpenter ants are expressed to me on a regular basis. I want to touch on some of the differences between these two types of pests at this time.
Termites are very small insects (look like maggots) that live below ground in colonies and invade our homes to feed on cellulose material. In order to survive Termites must remain inside moist soil and therefore build and travel through mud tubes which are usually seen on the surface of foundation walls and joists/rafters. Exposure to light and open air will kill them.
EXCEPTION – Termite Swarmers (winged dark colored termites) come out of the ground typically in the Spring/Summer time to establish new colonies in new locations.
Carpenter Ants are large reddish or black ants (one-half inch to one full inch long) that live in wood. They chew through wood in our homes creating a series of tunnels and dens. The tunnel walls have a very sanded look (like driftwood) with no dirt inside the wood. Sawdust can sometimes be seen coming out of one or more entry/exit holes. Carpenter Ants eat mostly sugars and proteins like most other ants (not wood).
EXCEPTION – Carpenter Ant Swarmers (winged ants) have the same role in life as Termite Swarmers.
Both Termites and Carpenter Ants are attracted to damp areas of our homes. We should always maintain positive drainage around our homes and repair any and all leaks immediately.
If you would like more information about Termites, Carpenter Ants or Leak Prevention please contact me
Feb 4
Articles, Exterior, Roofing , foundation, leaks, moisture, roof, wall, water damage No Comments
I was performing some maintenance on my home the other day and became inspired. Please read on.
Protecting our homes from the elements is a constant battle, always has been, always will be. There are three areas where moisture can enter our home. These are Roof, Wall, and Foundation.
Following are some tips that will help you identify weak spots and win the battle when dealing with moisture intrusion:
Roofs – Any crack/opening in the roof can allow moisture infiltration to occur. Flashings are designed to protect joints and openings at chimneys, vent pipes, skylights, roof vents, and wall intersections. Damaged and/or improperly installed flashings will allow water to enter the home.
Walls – Any crack/opening in the wall can allow moisture infiltration to occur. Caulking is a putty-like substance used to seal cracks and gaps around windows, doors, and at wall intersections. When caulking becomes dry, cracked, and/or loose it should be removed and replaced.
Foundations – Any crack/opening in the foundation can allow moisture infiltration to occur. The amount of moisture, and damage, is magnified when gutters/downspouts are not functional or missing and grading is not directing water away from the wall. Sealing all openings and creating adequate drainage around the foundation is key.
I’ve tried to keep my explanations simple. If you would like more information about Home Maintenance, Moisture Intrusion, or Flashings please contact me
Feb 4
Articles, Home & Garden, Plumbing, Septic drain, drainfield, maintenence, septic tank No Comments
I have been asked the following questions numerous times over the past several years and also recently, ” Why do I need to have my septic tank pumped? ” and ” How often should I have it done? ”
I have always felt that I can best answer these questions by explaining how a septic system works.
Basically the system has two parts, the SEPTIC TANK and the DRAINFIELD.
Household waste leaves our homes via drain pipes then enters the septic tank where solid waste is separated from liquid waste. Heavy solid waste sinks and accummulates on the bottom of the tank (sludge), light solid waste floats to the top and accummulates on top of the water inside the tank (scum). The area between the scum and sludge layers is liquid (effluent) which, in theory, should be the only substance that leaves the septic tank via drain tile and then enters the drainfield where it is distributed over the underlying soil, absorbed and filtered by the earth, and becomes part of the same water we get out of our wells for drinking, bathing, and cooking. What a lovely thought huh?!
Generally speaking, the septic tank should be cleaned out (pumped) every 3 – 5 years to prevent the accumulated scum and/or sludge from leaving the tank and entering the drainfield where it can clog the tiles and/or soil pores.
If you would like more information about Septic Systems or Wells please contact me
Feb 4
Articles, Heating & Cooling alternative energy, chimneys, fireplace, heating, wood stoves No Comments
Like many of my clients and some of you, I burn wood this time of year.
I love everything about it. Cutting up the trees, splitting the logs, stacking the wood, and building the fire. It is so rewarding for me to know that I provided comfort for my family once again with my own two hands.
When I think of a “Fireplace” I envision the traditional stone or brick fireplaces that we see everywhere this time of year. You know, the ones Santa drops down. Typically these have a large, open firebox made of steel or brick with a damper above it and an ash pit below it, a concrete or ceramic hearth in front of the opening, and a stone or brick chimney with sections of clay tile inside going up the wall outside. Some have spark screens or doors in front of the opening as well.
Here is how a fireplace works. Logs burn inside the firebox creating heat. The heat warms the room and also creates a draft that pulls the smoke from the fire up and out of the chimney. The damper above the firebox is adjustable so that the draft can be regulated. The ash pit below provides a temporary place to store leftover ashes after a fire has burned out. The hearth acts as a shield preventing any stray sparks from landing on the floor and burning it. Screens and doors prevent sparks from escaping out of the firebox as well.
When inspecting a fireplace I start inside and first look at the hearth. It should extend at least eighteen inches into the room and be made of some type of non-combustible material. Next I examine the firebox for signs of deteriorated mortar and loose bricks. I then check the operation of the damper and determine how much creosote has accumulated. Outside I examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of deteriorated mortar and loose masonry. Finally, I look down inside the chimney from above for signs of blockages, broken or misaligned tiles and creosote buildup.
CREOSOTE = Creosote is a dark brown / black tar-like substance that accumulates inside the throat and chimney of all wood burning fireplaces and wood stoves. It can ignite and cause a dangerous chimney fire. Chimney should be cleaned when creosote becomes 1/8th of an inch thick.
Note – Hardwoods, such as Oak, Maple, Birch, Walnut burn better than softwoods.
Stay warm,
Duane
If you would like more information about Fireplaces, Wood Stoves or Chimneys please feel free to contact me
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