How much damage do icicles like these cause on your roof?

Do you have numerous icicles hanging from the roof of your home ?

What a Home Inspection Examines
Inspectors vary in experience, ability and thoroughness, but a good inspector should examine certain components of the home you want to purchase and then produce a report covering his or her findings. The typical inspection lasts two to three hours and you should be present for the inspection to get a firsthand explanation of the inspector’s findings and, if necessary, ask questions. Also, any problems the inspector uncovers will make more sense if you see them in person instead of relying solely on the snapshot photos in the report.

The inspector should note:

• whether each problem is a safety issue, major defect, or minor defect
• which items need replacement and which should be repaired or serviced
• items that are suitable for now but that should be monitored closely

A really great inspector will even tell you about routine maintenance that should be performed, which can be a great help if you are a  first-time homebuyer. (To learn more, read First-Time Homebuyer Guide.)

While it is impossible to list everything an inspector could possibly check for, the following list will give you a general idea of what to expect. (Home maintenance can cost you more than you bargained for. Read Four Overlooked Homeownership Costs to learn more.)

Exterior

• Exterior walls – The inspector will check for damaged or missing siding, cracks and whether the soil is in excessively close contact with the bottom of the house, which can invite wood-destroying insects. However, the pest inspector, not the home inspector, will check for actual damage from these insects. The inspector will let you know which problems are cosmetic and which could be more serious.
• Foundation – If the foundation is not visible, and it usually is not, the inspector will not be able to examine it directly, but they can check for secondary evidence of foundation issues, like cracks or settling.
• Grading – The inspector will let you know whether the grading slopes away from the house as it should. If it doesn’t, water could get into the house and cause damage, and you will need to either change the slope of the yard or install a drainage system. (Read about managing the expense of a yard in Save Money On Summer Bills.)
• Garage or carport – The inspector will test the garage door for proper opening and closing, check the garage framing if it is visible and determine if the garage is properly ventilated (to prevent accidental carbon monoxide poisoning). If the water heater is in the garage, the inspector will make sure it is installed high enough off the ground to minimize the risk of explosion from gasoline fumes mingling with the heater’s flame.
• Roof – The inspector will check for areas where roof damage or poor installation could allow water to enter the home, such as loose, missing or improperly secured shingles and cracked or damaged mastic around vents. He or she will also check the condition of the gutters. (The roof offers opportunities for energy-conscious homeowners. Read Building Green For Your House And Wallet to learn more.)

Interior

• Plumbing – The home inspector will check all faucets and showers, look for visible leaks, such as under sinks and test the water pressure. He or she will also identify the kind of pipes the house has, if any pipes are visible. The inspector may recommend a secondary inspection if the pipes are old to determine if or when they might need to be replaced and how much the work would cost. The inspector will also identify the location of the home’s main water shutoff valve.
• Electrical – The inspector will identify the kind of wiring the home has, test all the outlets and make sure there are functional ground fault circuit interrupters (which can protect you from electrocution, electric shock and electrical burns) installed in areas like the bathrooms, kitchen, garage and outdoors. They will also check your electrical panel for any safety issues and check your electrical outlets to make sure they do not present a fire hazard.
• Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) – The inspector will look at your HVAC system to estimate the age of the furnace and air conditioner, determine if they function properly and recommend repairs or maintenance. An inspector can also give you an idea of the age of the home’s ducting, whether it might have leaks, if your home has sufficient insulation to minimize your energy bills and whether there is any asbestos insulation.
• Water heater – The home inspector will identify the age of the heater and determine if it is properly installed and secured. The inspector will also let you know what kind of condition it is in and give you a general idea of how many years it has left.
• Kitchen appliances – The inspector will sometimes check kitchen appliances that come with the home to make sure they work, but these are not always part of the inspection. Be sure to ask the inspector which appliances are not included so that you can check them yourself. (Energy-efficient appliances can save you big bucks. Read Ten Ways To Save Energy And Money to learn more.)
• Laundry room – The inspector will make sure the laundry room is properly vented. A poorly maintained dryer-exhaust system can be a serious fire hazard.
• Fire safety – If the home has an attached garage, the inspector will make sure the wall has the proper fire rating and that it hasn’t been damaged in any way that would compromise its fire rating. They will also test the home’s smoke detectors. (Learn more about protecting your home from fire in Insurance Tips For Homeowners.)
• Bathrooms – The inspector will check for visible leaks, properly secured toilets, adequate ventilation and other issues. If the bathroom does not have a window and/or a ventilation fan, mold and mildew can become problems and moisture can warp wood cabinets over time.

Home Inspection Shortcomings
A home inspection can’t identify everything that might be wrong with the property – it only checks for visual cues to problems. For example, if the home’s doors do not close properly or the floors are slanted, the foundation might have a crack - but if the crack can’t be seen without pulling up all the flooring in the house, a home inspector can’t tell you for sure if it’s there.

Furthermore, most home inspectors are generalists - that is, they can tell you that the plumbing might have a problem, but then they will recommend that you hire an expert to verify the problem and give you an estimate of the cost to fix it. Of course, hiring additional inspectors will cost extra money. Home inspectors also do not check for issues like termite damage, site contamination, mold, engineering problems and other specialized issues. (Learn how to find qualified experts in The Better Business Bureau’s Tool Belt For Saving Cash.)

After the Inspection
Once you have the results of your home inspection, you have several options.

• If the problems are too significant or too expensive to fix, you can choose to walk away from the purchase, as long as the purchase contract has an inspection contingency.
• For problems large or small, you can ask the seller to fix them, reduce the purchase price, or to give you a cash credit at closing to fix the problems yourself - this is where a home inspection can pay for itself several times over. (Read 10 Tips For Getting A Fair Price On A Home.)
• If these options aren’t viable in your situation (for example, if the property is bank-owned and being sold as-is), you can get estimates to fix the problems yourself and come up with a plan for repairs in order of their importance and affordability once you own the property. (To learn more, read Do-It-Yourself Projects To Boost Home Value.)

Bottom Line
A home inspection will cost you a little bit of time and money, but in the long run you’ll be glad you did it. The inspection can reveal problems that you may be able to get the current owners to fix before you move in, saving you time and money. If you are a first-time homebuyer, an inspection can give you a crash course in home maintenance and a checklist of items that need attention to make your home as safe and sound as possible. Don’t skip this important step in the home-buying process - it’s worth every penny.

by Amy Fontinelle, (Contact Author | Biography)

Amy Fontinelle earned her Bachelor of Arts degree from Washington University in St. Louis. In addition to writing for Investopedia, Amy also has her own personal finance website, Two Pennies Earned, which makes it easy and fun to save more, earn more and be financially secure both today and in the future. Amy is also a special contributing writer to the website Personal Finance Advice. When she’s not writing, Amy enjoys photography, traveling and trying new restaurants. To learn more about Amy, please visit her personal site.

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Gutters and downspouts are the first line of defense in preventing water running off of the roof from entering into basement and crawlspace areas of our homes where it can create an ideal environment for bugs, promote mold growth, and cause damage.

When clean, and properly installed, gutters collect water from the roof and direct it away from foundation walls via downspouts. Properly installed gutters slope towards downspouts and downspouts should extend six to eight feet away from foundation walls or discharge the water to a surface that slopes away from the home. All seams should be thoroughly sealed to prevent leaks.

I recommend inspecting and cleaning gutters and downspouts in late spring after the trees have begun to leaf out and again in late fall after the leaves have fallen as part of an annual maintenance plan.

It may look enchanting but it could be costing you more to heat your home. It could also be causing damage to your home. Icicles can be a sign of a condition known as ice damming.

Ice damming occurs when heated air inside the home migrates upward into the attic. The warm air then melts snow on the upper portion of the roof. When the melted snow reaches the significantly colder soffit area near the eves it refreezes to form an ice dam which is typically indicated by icicles. The dam will not allow additional melted snow and water to run off the roof so it backs up under the shingles and begins to leak into the home causing damage to insulation and structural components of the roof.

Properly insulating attic spaces and sealing all areas that allow air from inside the house to escape into the attic is the key to preventing ice damming.

If you would like to know more about Ice Damming, Roof Leaks, or Attic Ventilation please don’t hesitate to contact me.

If the home is equipped with footing tile and a functional sump pump moisture infiltration should not be an issue. Monitor the operation of the sump pump daily though, as it may be running more frequently at this time. I have seen many pumps fail this time of the year.

Side Note: I have experienced a high number of interior plumbing leaks in vacant homes that have been recently de-winterized as well.

If you would like more information on basement leaks, grading, or gutters and downspouts please don’t hesitate to contact me

Unfortunately, not all life is accepted with open arms….mosquitos, hornets, termites, and carpenter ants to name a few.

In my profession concerns about termites and carpenter ants are expressed to me on a regular basis. I want to touch on some of the differences between these two types of pests at this time.

Termites are very small insects (look like maggots) that live below ground in colonies and invade our homes to feed on cellulose material. In order to survive Termites must remain inside moist soil and therefore build and travel through mud tubes which are usually seen on the surface of foundation walls and joists/rafters. Exposure to light and open air will kill them.

EXCEPTION – Termite Swarmers (winged dark colored termites) come out of the ground typically in the Spring/Summer time to establish new colonies in new locations.

Carpenter Ants are large reddish or black ants (one-half inch to one full inch long) that live in wood. They chew through wood in our homes creating a series of tunnels and dens. The tunnel walls have a very sanded look (like driftwood) with no dirt inside the wood. Sawdust can sometimes be seen coming out of one or more entry/exit holes. Carpenter Ants eat mostly sugars and proteins like most other ants (not wood).

EXCEPTION – Carpenter Ant Swarmers (winged ants) have the same role in life as Termite Swarmers.

Both Termites and Carpenter Ants are attracted to damp areas of our homes. We should always maintain positive drainage around our homes and repair any and all leaks immediately.

If you would like more information about Termites, Carpenter Ants or Leak Prevention please contact me

Protecting our homes from the elements is a constant battle, always has been, always will be. There are three areas where moisture can enter our home. These are Roof, Wall, and Foundation.

Following are some tips that will help you identify weak spots and win the battle when dealing with moisture intrusion:

Roofs – Any crack/opening in the roof can allow moisture infiltration to occur. Flashings are designed to protect joints and openings at chimneys, vent pipes, skylights, roof vents, and wall intersections. Damaged and/or improperly installed flashings will allow water to enter the home.

Walls – Any crack/opening in the wall can allow moisture infiltration to occur. Caulking is a putty-like substance used to seal cracks and gaps around windows, doors, and at wall intersections. When caulking becomes dry, cracked, and/or loose it should be removed and replaced.

Foundations – Any crack/opening in the foundation can allow moisture infiltration to occur. The amount of moisture, and damage, is magnified when gutters/downspouts are not functional or missing and grading is not directing water away from the wall. Sealing all openings and creating adequate drainage around the foundation is key.

I’ve tried to keep my explanations simple. If you would like more information about Home Maintenance, Moisture Intrusion, or Flashings please contact me